Hey David, sorry for the late reply. Things get clogged up here and I forget to keep a keen eye out on this part of the blog.
What you’re referring to is the ‘break’. How much of a break you want on your trousers really depends on your height, and what else you’re wearing on your top half.
I prefer my trousers to have almost no break. The cuffs, therefore, sit, or ‘hover’ just above my shoes — but they tend to ‘kiss’ to top of my shoes.
Why “almost”? Because zero break for me is not ideal. I’ll explain.
I have very full legs. But I also like my cuffs/leg opening to be on the slightly narrower side of things. At the same time, I try and keep note of the fact that I don’t want the taper on my trouser leg to be too aggressive. With my height (170cm) and my wide thighs, an aggressive taper will make my legs look very stout. That’s not a good look.
I also don’t like anything more than the slightest break because any clumping of cloth (this is a very personal and subjective observation so it is open to discussion and debate) at my ankles also makes me look stocky and sloppy.
I did mention above that what you wear on your upper half of your body is a relevant factor. I cut my jackets and coats slightly longer. This is to hide the wide hips. A shorter coat will accentuate my wide hips - again, not a good look. So since my coats are just a smidge longer than what you see on most #menswear bloggers, my trousers need to reciprocate that allowance.
I hope this makes sense. If not, shoot me another question and I’ll be glad to help where I can.
I’ve never had any experience starting a clothing brand, but here’s my $0.02 on what I’d look out for (personally) in any clothes:
- a genuine commitment to quality
- a genuine commitment to comfort
- timelessness (not just what’s on-trend right now), or at least the balance between what will be stylish today, tomorrow, and a few years from now
- of course, an honest price point.
I might be asking for a lot, but that’s why so few make the cut, for me.
Of course, these are my personal thoughts. I wish you well and hope for all the success you deserve with your hard work.